Best Edibles for Marin

It's possible to eat fresh from the garden all year long in Marin. Doing so takes a fair amount of planning. Here's how to determine which crops will suit your climate, space, and palate.
Grow what you like to eat!
It sounds so basic, yet it's easy to forget. If broccoli isn't your thing, don't be tempted by that cute little start at your local nursery.
Choose edibles by season and microclimate

Most edibles are classified as cool or warm season crops.
COOL SEASON CROPS grow best when air temperatures are 55-75°F and soil temperature is about 40 degrees. They will tolerate light freezes.
Examples:
Cool season crops include alliums (onions, garlic, and leeks), artichokes, asparagus, brassicas. (broccoli, cabbage cauliflower), greens, peas, and root vegetables.
WARM SEASON CROPS need soil that's 60 to 65 degrees and grow best when air temperatures are 65 to 92 degrees.
Examples:
beans, cucumbers, eggplant, annual herbs, peppers, tomatoes, and squash.
With proper placement and occasional use of row covers, some greens and root crops may be grown all year long. Disease resistant varieties are recommended, especially in small gardens where crop rotation may not be possible. Learn how to take your soil's temperature
| See planting times for your Marin microclimate For an at-a-glance overview of planting times for your area, see Planting Spring-Summer Edibles by Microclimate. For detailed planting times, refer to the Edibles Planting Calendar. |
Best choices for Marin

UC Marin Master Gardeners have grown many varieties of edibles to find those that grow well in Marin's microclimates. Records are kept regarding pests, production, and flavor. Here are some favorites!
ARTICHOKE
‘Green Globe’ and 'Green Globe Improved' 'Violetto di Romagna' 'Imperial Star'
ARUGULA
'Surrey' 'Astro'
ASPARAGUS
‘Jersey' series ‘UC 157’ ‘UC 72’ 'Mary Washington' 'Martha Washington'
BEAN (Bush)
‘Velour Purple Bush’(French Filet), 'Fava'
BEAN (pole)
‘Blue Lake Pole’ ‘Nickel’ (French Filet) 'Scarlet Runner' 'Romano' 'Blue Lake' 'Kentucky Wonder' 'Yellow Pole Wax' 'Purple Peacocks,' 'Nickel' 'Dragon Tongue'
BEET
'Detroit Dark Red' 'Early Wonder' 'Chiogga' 'Golden' 'Bull's Blood' ‘Chioggia’
BLUEBERRY
‘Bountiful Blue’ 'Sunshine Blue' ‘Misty’ 'Jubilee' 'Oneal' ‘Chandler’
BROCCOLI (long season)
'Shogun F1' 'Purple Sprouting' 'Rudolph' 'White Star'
BROCCOLI (Romanesco)
'Veronica F1' 'Minaret' 'Waltham 29'
BROCCOLI (short season)
'De Cicco' ‘Calabrese’ 'Green Goliath' 'Umpqua' 'Nutribud' ' Premium Crop F1' 'Packman' F1
BROCCOLI RABE
‘Apollo’ ‘Purple Peacock’ ‘Spring Rabe’
CABBAGE
'Gonzales' F1 (55 to 65 days)
'Early Jersey Wakefield' (60 to 75 days)
'Red Drumhead' (75 to 90 days)
'Savoy King' F1 (70 to 125 days)
'January King' (3 to 5 months)
'Danish Ballhead' (120 to 125 days)
CARROT
For beds: ‘Scarlet Nantes’ ‘Nelson’ ‘Royal Chantenay’ 'Bolero' 'Mokum' 'Nantes' 'Nelson' 'Yaya';
For containers: 'Little Finger' 'Short 'n' Sweet' 'Baby Sweet' 'Sweet Baby Jane' 'Parmex'
For colors: 'Purple Haze' 'Red Samurai' 'White Satin'
For heavy soil: 'Thumbelina' 'Oxheart'
CAULIFLOWER
'Snow Crown' (50 to 60 days) 'Snow King' 'Snowball Y' 'Snowball A';
Purple varieties: 'Purple Cape' 'Rosalind' 'Graffiti' F1;
Yellow-green varieties: 'Green Harmony' 'Emerald' F1;
Orange variety: 'Cheddar' F1
CELERY
‘Golden Self Blanching’ ‘Utah' types, 'Command', 'Mission', 'Challenger'
CHARD
‘Electric Neon’ ‘Fordhook Giant’ ‘Ruby Red’ ‘Bright Lights’
COLLARDS
‘Champion’
CORN
Yellow: 'Early Sunglow' 'Kandy Korn' 'Jubilee' 'Early Xtra Sweet';
White: 'Argent' 'Silver Queen' 'How Sweet It Is'; bicolor: 'Double Gem'; Dwarf: 'Candystick'
CUCUMBER
Slicing: 'Dasher 11' 'Marketmore' 'Sweet Success' 'Burpless' 'Sweet Slice';
Pickling: 'Liberty' 'Saladin' 'Country Fair 83';
Bush: 'Pickle Bush' 'Bush Champion' 'Salad Bush' 'Spacemaster'
EGGPLANT
‘Rosa Bianca’ ‘Traviata’ ‘Ping Tung Long’ ‘ Nadia’ (cooler climes)
ENDIVE-curly
‘Rhodes’
FENNEL
‘Prelude’ ‘Orion’
GARLIC
Softneck: 'California Early' 'California Late' 'Silverskin' 'Inchelium Red' 'Early Italian Purple';
Hardneck: 'Chesnok Red' 'Music' 'Spanish Roja' 'German Red' 'Asian Tempest' 'China Stripe' 'Italian Red Rocambole' and 'Siberian'
HERBS
‘Genovese Basil’ and ‘Thai Basil’ ‘Santo Cilantro’ ‘Giant Italian Parsley’
KALE
‘Toscano’ and ‘Siberian’
LEAFY GREENS
‘Flashy Butter Oak’ ‘Coastal Star’ ‘Mirlo’ ‘New Red' 'Crunch’ ‘Muir’ 'Melody' 'American'
LEEK
‘Hannibal’ ‘Pandora’
LETTUCE
Looseleaf: 'Salad Bowl' 'Oakleaf' 'Red Sails';
Butterhead: 'Continuity' 'Four Seasons' ‘Buttercrunch’
Romaine: 'Little Gem' 'Rouge d’Hiver' ‘Breen’
Crisphead: 'Diamond Head' 'Summertime'; ‘Oscarde’ ‘Dragoon’ ‘Marvel of Four Seasons’ ‘Parris Island’ ‘Breen’
MELON
’Arava’ ‘Rocky Fordescorial’ Sweet Granite’ ‘Sugar Baby’
ONION
'Walla Walla’ ‘Ruby Ring’ 'Southport Red Globe' 'Copra'
PARSNIP
‘Lancer’
PARSLEY
'Darki Moss' 'Giant of Italy' aka 'Gigante D'Italia'
PEA
Shelling: 'Oregon Trail' 'Maestro'
Snow/sugar: 'Oregon Sugar Pod II' 'Oregon Giant'
Snap: 'Cascadia' 'Super Sugar Snap' 'Sugar Spring'
PEPPER
‘Gypsy’ ‘Ancho Early Jalapeno’ ‘Olympus Sweet Sunrise’ ‘Antonhi'
POTATO
‘Buffalo’ ‘Bison’ ‘Carola’ ‘Carlotta’ ‘White Rose’ ‘Kennebec’ ‘Chieftain’ ‘Nargold’ ‘Russet’ ‘Red Lasoda’ ‘Red Pontiac' ‘Yukon Gold’ ‘Russian Banana’
PUMPKIN
Cooking: ‘Small Sugar’;
Jack-o-lanterns: 'Howden' 'Connecticut Field' 'Spirit'
Mildew-resistant: 'Charisima'
RADDICHIO
‘Rosa di Treviso Precoce’
RADISH
‘French Breakfast’ ‘Easter Egg’ ‘Purple Plum’ ‘Watermelon’ 'Daikon'
SAGE
'Tricolor' 'Berggarten' 'Dwarf' 'Purpurescens' 'Golden Delicious'
SPINACH
‘Corvair’ ‘Bloomsdale’
SQUASH (summer)
’Cocozelle’ 'Costata Romanesco' 'Dark Star' 'Lebanese Light Green';
Compact: ‘Peter Pan' hybrid ‘Scallopini’ ‘Early White Bush’ ‘Sundance’
SQUASH (winter)
'Hubbard varieties: ‘Red Kuri’, ‘Blue Ballet’ ‘Sweet Meat’ ‘Red Kuri’ ‘Blue Ballet’
Acorn: 'Sweet Reba' 'Table Queen' 'Carnival'
Delicata varieties: ‘Zeppelin’ ‘Sweet Dumpling’ ‘Cornell’s Bush’;
Butternut varieties: ‘Waltham’ ‘Butterbush’ ‘JWS 6823’;
Kabocha varieties: ‘Sunshine’ (bright orange-red), ‘Cha-Cha’ (dark green);
Turban varieties: 'Marina Di Chioggia'
STRAWBERRY
‘Seascape’ ‘Albion’ ‘Elan’ ‘Tri-star’
SUNCHOKES
'Stampede' 'Fuseau' 'Golden Nugget'
TOMATILLO
'Tomate' 'Toma Verde' (green)
'De Milpa' (purple)
TOMATO
‘Sun Gold’ (does well in all Marin climates and is a favorite year after year) ‘Costoluto’ ‘San Marzano’ ‘Black Cherry’ ‘Cherokee Purple’ ‘Green Zebra’ ‘Black Krim’ ' Black Beauty' ‘Cherry Bomb’ 'Oaxacan Jewel' 'Grandero' (sauce) 'Juliet' 'Chef's Choice' 'Rapunzel';
Good for coastal settings: 'Carmello' 'Green Giant' 'Japanese Black Trifele' 'Jaune Flamme' 'Black and Brown Boar' 'Super Sweet 100' 'Blush Cherry' 'Early Girl' 'Sun Gold' 'Celebrity'
TURNIP
‘Purple Top’ ‘Tokyo Market/Hakurei'
Open pollinated, heirloom, or hybrid: what's the difference?
When selecting seeds and starts you have a choice of open pollinated, heirloom or hybrid. Seed savers will choose open pollinated or heirloom varieties, as seeds from these plants will grow true-to-type offspring. Learn more about saving seed.
Self-pollinated. These plants have both male and female reproductive parts within the same flower. Pollination occurs within the individual, not as a cross between plants. As a result, if you save seeds from these plants, you can count on them being the same as the parent plant, or "coming true."
Open-pollinated -- Pollination occurs naturally by wind or insect to self or cross-pollinate. If you want to save seed, plants that cross-pollinate should be isolated from other varieties of the same species. This way they will produce seed that comes true.
Heirloom -- Edible plants grown over 50 years. Generally robust. All heirlooms must be open pollinated but not all open pollinated edibles are heirlooms. Seeds may be saved and used for propagating.
Hybrid -- Pollination occurs naturally or under control in a lab and is often labeled F1. Controlled pollination intentionally creates plants with desired trait(s). To reproduce the same variety, you must purchase new seed or starts. Hybrids will not produce true-to-type seeds because they contain genetic material from several varieties and it is unknown which variety might come through in the seed a hybrid produces. But many gardeners prefer hybrids for the traits they offer, such as disease resistance.
•••••••••
BACK TO EDIBLES
> What Edible Gardens Need
> Best Choices for Marin
> How to Prepare
> How to Plant
> Edibles in Containers
> Planting Calendar
> Grow & Care Sheets for Vegetables, Herbs & Fruits
> Tips & Techniques
> How to Maintain
> Fruit Trees
> Top 20 Edible Garden Problems
> Cover Crops & Soil Enhancements in the Off-season
> Conserving Water
•••••••••
Visit our EDIBLE DEMO GARDEN at IVC Organic Farm & Garden
February 2025: Choosing the Right Garden Tools

In January, the 2025 Marin Master Gardener training class was welcomed into the Edible Demonstration Garden for a discussion and demonstration on the use and care of garden tools. The right tools make the difference between gardening that is pleasurable and gardening that is a struggle. Your first experience with a garden tool might have been that pointed stick you used when digging in the dirt as a child. Now as a gardener, you are presented with an array of better tool choices, some essential for basic garden work and some designed for specific tasks. There are tools for pruning, tools for digging, tools for raking, and tools to make gardening easier. Here are some of the more popular tools in those categories.
Pruning Tools

Hand pruners are the favorite tool for most home gardeners. They are the tools used most often for cutting and thinning small branches to maintain plant health and appearance. They are also used for cutting flowers and harvesting vegetables. By-pass pruners, which work like scissors, are best for making clean cuts on living plants. Anvil pruners crush branch tissue and are good for removing and cutting up dead branches.
- Pruning saws are used to remove branches larger than what hand pruners can remove. They can have a fixed or folding blade.
- Loppers are long-handled by-pass pruners that can help access higher and hard to reach branches. The long handles also provide leverage to enable pruning thicker branches.
Digging Tools

Trowels are essential for digging, planting, potting, and weeding. A trowel is a spade-shaped hand tool with a slightly scooped blade.
- Garden knives are a type of trowel with a sharp narrow blade and a pointed end. One blade edge is usually serrated. Hori-Hori garden knives are a Japanese design that has proven to be so useful for digging and weeding that the name is often applied to any type of garden knife.
- Shovels and spades are long-handled digging and soil lifting tools with the shape of blade and the length of the handle determining their particular uses.
Raking Tools
- Rakes are useful for cleaning up leaves, removing debris, and spreading out soil amendments like compost and mulch. Hand rakes are great for getting into small spaces. Rakes with flexible, fan-shaped tines work well for cleaning up lighter debris and are sometimes called leaf rakes. Garden rakes have larger stiff metal tines and are intended for heavier use in soil or larger debris.
- Forks are used for raking out stones and weeds. Like a dinner fork, a garden fork has four strong tines which can push easily into the ground and enable it to double as a digging tool for loosening and turning over the soil.
Gardening Comfort Tools

Gloves provide the hand protection every gardener needs. They are a barrier against pricks, cuts, abrasions, blisters, insect bites, and other skin irritations. While most gardeners don’t mind getting their hands dirty, getting jabbed with a nasty thorn is not only painful, but it can also lead to serious infections. There are many types of gloves to choose from depending on the type of protection required. Most important is that they fit well and are comfortable to wear.
- Kneelers cushions protect the knees when planting, weeding, and performing other low to ground garden tasks. Kneelers made of rectangular shaped heavy foam are the simplest type. However, kneelers with handles that are lightweight and easy to fold up can make the up and down movements around the garden easier. Some even flip over to form a bench.
- Ergonomically modified tools can help gardeners get more done with less effort by enabling good body alignment and reducing joint strain. Grips should be comfortable to hold and keep hands and wrists in natural positions. Handles should be the right length to enable good posture without excessive bending and twisting.
Tool Care
Tools need to be kept clean, sharpened, in good repair, and organized to keep them working well. Surface dirt and dried sap should be brushed or washed off after each use. Periodically applying a light layer of oil will reduce rust. Pruners need regular sharpening and should be sanitized with a 10% bleach solution following contact with diseased plant material. Storing tools in dry place where they can be easily accessed will ensure they are ready for work when you are.
Click here to learn more about choosing and caring for garden tools.
December 2024: Giving the Garden a Rest


Planting cover crops
There are many advantages to planting cover crops. Cover crops, sometimes referred to as “green manure”, are an excellent way to protect and improve soil. They increase organic matter, suppress weeds, prevent damage from wind and water erosion, and support beneficial insects and earthworms. Plus, they can look attractive while nurturing the garden.

Two different cover crops were chosen for the Edible Demo Garden. Fava beans were planted in several of the garden beds and in the straw bales used for the summer crops. The latter is an experiment to determine if there is sufficient residual fertility in the straw bales to support another crop. In order to aid in germination and enhance their nitrogen fixing effects, the fava bean seeds were soaked in an inoculant containing rhizobacteria prior to planting. As an alternative cover crop, a green manure mix of bell beans, field peas, and purple/hairy vetch was planted in some of the raised beds. Past experience with crows eating the sprouting seeds necessitated the use of compost, straw, and protective netting to give the cover crop seedlings a fighting chance. The effectiveness of the different cover crops will be tested in spring when it is time to plant again.
Allowing beds to remain fallow

Click here for more information on cover crops and soil enhancement in the off-season.
November 2024: Experimenting with Different Tomato Varieties


Tomatoes are among the top summer crops in the Edible Demo Garden and each year there are decisions to be made about which varieties to grow. Since there are reported to be over 10,000 varieties of tomatoes, it’s important to narrow down the selection considerably and plant only those varieties that grow well in Marin and are appealing to consumers. However, even within those broad parameters, many choices can be made. The Marin Master Gardeners typically offer sixteen varieties in their annual tomato plant sales. These are the varieties that have proven over the years to be the most popular with customers. Each year one or two new varieties may be offered to replace some that have not fared so well in terms of sales or customer reviews. Choices about new varieties are usually based on members’ recommendations.
The Tomato Experiment
This spring the Edible Demo Garden and the Edibles Guild launched a collaborative experiment to determine which of seven tomato varieties not previously sold in the tomato market, would be most successful in Marin’s different growing conditions. The experiment involved adopting out 132 plants grown in the Indian Valley Organic Farm & Garden greenhouse to 37 Marin Master Gardeners willing to try growing them in their own gardens. The seven varieties were:

- Costoluto Genovese – a classic red Italian heirloom
- Bicolor Marvel Stripe – a marbled red and gold heirloom
- Moonglow – a bright orange heirloom
- Mortgage Lifter – a large meaty red heirloom
- Magic Bullet – an elongated cherry-sized open pollinated variety
- Pink Berkeley Tie Dye – a wine-colored open pollinated variety with green stripes and pink flesh
- Amish paste – a small bright red heirloom best used for sauces
The tomato adopters agreed to submit data describing their experiences growing the trial tomatoes. They recorded the garden type, location, and microclimate, when the tomatoes were planted, how they were cared for, and when the first tomato was harvested. Then they subjectively rated the tomatoes on yield and taste. Finally, and most importantly, they answered the question – “would you grow this variety again?”.
Which varieties had the best results?

What matters most when choosing tomatoes to plant
One of the most important factors to consider when choosing a tomato variety is the microclimate in the growing location. Tomatoes need sunshine and warm soil. All the experimental tomatoes required temperatures above 65 degrees and some preferred 75 degrees. During a typical spring, in most areas of Marin, around May 1st is when the temperatures are best for planting tomatoes. Tomatoes planted before the air and soil are sufficiently warmed, will sit idly by until the conditions are right. Conversely, tomatoes don’t like extreme heat and will stop production during heat waves like those experienced in parts of Marin this summer.
Linked to microclimate are days to maturity. This is the average time it takes for the first ripe fruit to develop in ideal heat conditions. Magic Bullet, Pink Berkely Tie Dye, and Costoluto Genovese are considered mid-range, requiring 70 to 80 days to mature. The others are late maturers, needing more than 80 days to produce ripe fruit. Bicolor Marvel Stripe takes 95 days to mature. In cool areas of Marin, there may not be enough warm days for some late maturing tomato varieties to reach full production.
Click here for more advice on selecting and growing tomatoes.







